Soba Noodles with Vegetables and Crispy Tofu

Adapted from Gourmet January 1996

8 ounces of soba noodles
3 tablespoons grapeseed oil
16-ounce package of extra firm tofu (rinsed, patted dry, and cut into 1/2-inch cubes)
4 carrots, cut into short, thin sticks
8 ounces fresh mushrooms, stems discarded and caps thin-sliced
4 stalks celery, halved and thin-sliced
2 tablespoons grated peeled fresh ginger
2 teaspoons sesame oil
1 tablespoon tamari or soy sauce, plus more to taste
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
1 tablespoon sesame seeds
2 green onions, thinly sliced (white and green parts)

In a 6-quart pot, bring 5 quarts of salted water to a boil. Cook noodles in boiling water until al dente. Drain noodles in a colander and immediately rinse with cold water. In a large bowl, toss noodles with 1 teaspoon sesame oil.

Meanwhile, in a large non-stick skillet, heat 1 teaspoon grapeseed oil over moderately high heat. Brown the tofu, stirring a few times. Transfer tofu with a slotted spoon to a paper towel to drain; season with salt and pepper.

Add carrots to skillet and sauté, stirring, until just tender and golden brown. Transfer carrots with slotted spoon to a bowl. Add to skillet remaining 2 tablespoons grapeseed oil, mushrooms, celery, and ginger, and cook over moderate heat, stirring constantly, until vegetables are tender. Stir in carrots.

Add 1/4 cup water, tamari/soy sauce, vinegar, and remaining teaspoon sesame oil. Bring mixture to a simmer and cook, stirring, until hot. Add noodles, tossing to combine and adding more water if necessary. Cook until heated through. Season noodles with salt and pepper and serve warm topped with tofu, sesame seeds, and green onions.

21st-Century Mac and Cheese

From The Splendid Table's How to Eat Supper

3 quarts salted water in a 4-quart pot
1/2 pound (2 cups) elbow macaroni or penne pasta
1 large egg
1 cup milk, half-and-half, or heavy cream
1 small garlic clove
3/4 medium onion, coarse chopped
1 generous cup (5 ounces) shredded good-quality extra-sharp cheddar cheese
5 ounces cream cheese, crumbled
2/3 cup (3 ounces) shredded gruyere, appenzeller, or manchego cheese
Generous 1/8 teaspoon red pepper flakes
Generous 1/8 teaspoon salt
Generous 1/8 teaspoon fresh-ground black pepper
Generous 1/4 teaspoon sweet paprika, Hungarian or Spanish
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
12 saltines, coarsely crumbled

Bring the salted water to a boil. Drop in the macaroni or penne. Boil, stirring often, until the pasta is tender but still with a little firmness. Drain in a colander.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter a shallow 1.5-quart baking dish, and add the cooked macaroni.

In a blender or food processor, combine the egg, milk, and garlic. Process for three seconds. Add the onion, cheese, red pepper flakes, salt, black pepper, and paprika, and blend for 10 seconds, or until the onion is cut down to small pieces and the ingredients are blended. Turn the mixture into the dish, folding it into the macaroni. (The casserole could be covered with plastic wrap and refrigerated for up to 24 hours at this point.)

To bake, bring the casserole close to room temperature if it has been refrigerated. Melt the butter, add the saltine crumbles, and coat them with the butter. Spread them over the top of the casserole. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, or until thick yet creamy. If the top is not golden brown, slip the casserole under the broiler for a minute. Remove it from the oven, let it stand for 5 minutes, and serve.

Beet Cake with Fennel Icing

From The Beetlebung Farm Cookbook

Makes one nine-inch cake

Cake
2 cups grated peeled beets (~1 lb.)
2 cups sugar
2.5 cups all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons unsweetened cocoa powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 cup neutral oil, such as canola
1 cup yogurt
2 eggs, beaten
1 teaspoon white vinegar
1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract

Beet Jam
3 apples (any eating apple)
1 cup grated peeled beets (~1/2 lb.)
1/2 cup sugar

Frosting
1 cup milk
1.5 teaspoons fennel seeds
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1/2 pound (2 sticks) butter at room temperature
1 cup sugar

Combine the grated beets with 1/2 cup of the sugar in a large bowl. Mix and set aside until the mixture looks "juicy," about 40 minutes.

Heat oven to 350°F. Grease a 9-inch springform pan. In a bowl, whisk the flour with the cocoa and baking soda.

Add the remaining 1.5 cups of sugar to the beet mixture, then add the oil, yogurt, eggs, vinegar, and vanilla and mix well. Fold in the flour mixture. Spoon the batter into the prepared pan. Bake the cake until it bounces back when pressed; start checking after 1 hour, but it may take longer. Allow the cake to cool for 10 minutes, then remove it from the pan and allow it to cool completely.

Meanwhile, make the jam. Peel, core, and chop the apples. Put them in a saucepan with grated beets and sugar. Cook over low het, stirring occasionally and breaking up any chunks as you go, until the jam is very soft and spreadable, about 35 minutes. Allow it to cool.

Start making the frosting while the cake bakes and the jam cooks. Combine the milk and fennels seeds in a saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Pull the pan off the stove, cover, and let milk set for an hour. Strain the milk (discarding the fennel seeds) and return to the pan. Add the flour and whisk continuously over medium heat until the milk thickens, about 5 minutes (your whisk will begin to leave "tracks"). Pour the mixture into a bowl, cover with plastic wrap so it doesn't form a skin, and set aside to cool.

Using an electric mixer, beat the butter with the sugar until white and fluffy. With the mixer running, slowly add the fennel milk. Beat just until the frosting is light and airy.

When the cake is cool, cut it in half through the middle with a serrated knife, creating two more or less equal rounds. Carefully put the bottom round on a plate or cake stand. Spread the cut surface evenly with the beet jam, then lay the second round, cut-side down, on top. Frost the top and sides of the cake, slice, and serve.